Dubrovnik Fashion Week International

MASTORI*MOTWARY studio // Greece

uberwave — Tue, 09 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

Maria Mastori was born in Athens and as a teenager, she took art and design courses and at the same time she started attending lessons on jewellery design and production. Since 1984 she started taking part in group exhibitions with her works as an artist. The period between 1994 and 2005 was extremely valuable for Mastori, due to her participation in many other installations and exhibitions, among others, at Benakis Museum and Galleries such as Selini, Kivotos… Her relation with fashion accessories originally started with her collaboration with the Couture designer Loukia in 1998. Until this day, she is still creating jewellery for a number of different designers, who present their work in Greece and abroad. In February 2008, she was chosen through the web community of IQONS.COM by prints master and designer Zandra Rhodes as her favourite jewellery and accessories designer.

Filep Motwary nationality is a combination of Syria and Cyprus. After working as a stylist’s assistant for a year’s period for the Greek edition of L’Officiel, he was hired by Couture House Loukia as her first Studio assistant designer, a collaboration that lasted until 2004. During the same year Filep represented Greece, in a project launched by Absolut Vodka, entitled Absolut Country, supported by Kesselskramer in Amsterdam.He moved to Paris where he spent a year working as an intern for the Houses of John Galliano, Dior and Chloe.

Since July 2005 Maria is collaborating with Filep under the label MASTORI*MOTWARY STUDIO. Filep and Maria presented seven collections during the Hellenic Fashion Week: FROST, SOPHIA, OVERTONE CONTINUUM, SAME TIME TOMORROW, VIER FUCHSE VOR FUCHSBAU…. Their work has been presented in various magazines such as Vogue Italia, Glamour, L’Officiel. WAD, Stilus, Dazed&Confused, ZOO, Elle …. The Mastori*Motwary collections can be found in 15 different locations in Greece as well as in Cyprus and Johannesburg. Motwary is also editor for the fashion issue of ISTEROGRAFO in Cyprus, a supplement of Phileleftheros Newspaper, that comes out twice a year. So far he has interviewed a great number of creative individuals from the international fashion platform: Juergen Teller, Rick Owens Walter Van Beirendonck, Bernhard Willhelm, Dries Van Noten, Nicola Formichetti, A.F Vandevorst, N.A Taralis, Veronique Branquinho, Maria Luisa, Miles Aldridge, Matthias Vriens, Gaspard Yuekievich, Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Juun J.,….

He is also behind Un nouVeau iDEAL, a blog focusing on information regarding fashion, arts and design: www.unnouveauideal.typepad.com

ANNA AICHINGER // Austria

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:25 +0000

“I make fashion for women with ambitions, who are not afraid to take their life in their own hands and conquer the world – with talent, commitment and style.” Thus the young Austrian designer describes her fashion line. With her label of the same name Anna Aichinger has already successfully presented her collections in renowned showrooms in Paris since 2006.

Anna Aichinger was born in Vienna and studied fashion design at the university of applied arts in Vienna under guest professors such as Jean Charles de Castelbajac, Viktor & Rolf and Raf Simons. She graduated 2003 with the best diploma of the year and won the moet chandon schools award at the Gwand the same year. 2004 she was invited to the festival des arts et de la mode in Hyères / France, received the Fashion Award of the City of Vienna in 2006 as well as the ‚go International’ Award 2009.
With her straight-lined designs she has created a sophisticated and very distinctive style, rather than trends there is a sense of experimentation defined by the contrast of formal minimalism and sex appeal that defines the heart of her aesthetic. Her design have more to do with shape, cut and attitude than decoration, attempting to emphasise the personality and elegance of women.
Anna Aichinger has an uncanny ability to capture the contemporary climate and transform it into fashion. The individual parts from different collections go with each other and offer various possibilities of combination and also can be quickly changed from day-wear to evening-wear with just a few twists – adapted to the needs of a modern women. The basic elements of the collections are redefined basics, tailored cuts and fluid silhouettes. The main colours she uses are black, grey, white and skin tones complemented by seasonally changing colour accents. Anna Aichinger produces a winter and a summer collection per year, presents her collections at the Paris Fashion Week as well as on international trade shows and supplies international shops. As regards the production special attention is paid to the quality of the materials and to the production conditions.

www.annaaichinger.com

EMILIJA BAJRAMOVA // UK

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:07 +0000

Emilia is a London-based Womenswear designer specializing in Knitwear. After graduating from a BA (Hons) FDT course with 1st class degree from London College of Fashion, Emilia went on to study an MA Fashion course. Having studied Womenswear and Textiles before, Emilia decided to focus on knitwear and to expand her existing skills in both hand- and machine-knitting.

Emilia’s collection ‘Prozac Nation’ was inspired by a memoir of the same name by Elizabeth Wurtzel. ‘Prozac Nation’ is a projection of a complex discernment of Lizzie’s reality while suffering from depression through nine hand-knitted dresses. Each dress refers to a particular state of Elizabeth’s mind, and together they visualize the process of her reinvention in form of shape, colour and texture. Exaggerated sleeves, necks and other body parts; unexpected chunky brass zips allowing to transform garments and a vivid colour palette create an instant impact. Having hand-knitted the entire collection herself, Emilia appreciates the quality of craftsmanship and provides her collection with sentimental value. At present Emilia is working for a high-end luxury brand.

www.showtime.arts.ac.uk/emilia

DEREK LAWLOR // UK

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:07 +0000

Derek Lawlor is a contemporary knitwear designer. He grew up in Sussex studying in Brighton before embarking on London to study Textile Design at Central St Martin’s specialising in Knitwear.On completely his BA Derek went on to complete a master at St Martin’s graduating with a distinction in MA Fashion Knitwear in March 2009.

Derek featured in the Central St Martin’s A/W 09 show at London Fashion Week with a collection of heavily embellished dresses. The collection was credited by Sarah Mower as ‘fabulous knitwear’ on vogue.com and has received great press and recognition. Inspired by Japanese body armour, Derek has developed a unique lace cord technique using wax cord to create organic sculptural shapes on tight fitting cashmere dresses.

Derek’s inspiration goes beyond fabric and ranges from body armour to sculpture and architectural references. Inspired he then goes on to create the fabrics which form the structure to his garments. References for his A/W 09 collection were taking from exploring traditional body armour and costume from around the world- he then focused on Japanese body armour looking at layering of different materials to create interesting shapes and texture. All these references come together in Derek’s mixing of weights, structure and shapes derived from experimentation on his domestic knitting machine.

Derek adapts techniques such as weaving to create three dimensional patterns and unique fabric designs. What may start off as a simple length of cashmere cloth, will be completely transformed once the wax cord is woven through. The lace technique is original and forms a canvas for Derek to work in to. The cord is like thread which is then woven through the lace patterns to form fantastic organic shapes. Further visual and movement away from the body was created by the long fringes of cords hanging from the dresses- each fringed cord end has been finished with plastic dip enhancing the modern edge to this collection.

Using time spent from working for designers such as Michiko Koshino, Alex Gore Browne and Japer Gardiva to hone his skill, Derek has been able to build an impressive textile and fashion portfolio that speaks of both progress and individuality. His work, rather than following the trends of fashion is both enduring in its aesthetic and innovative in its technique. Derek’s pieces straddle the boundaries between artwork and fashion, craft and performance commanding attention in their complexity . This collection is an example of furthering fashion and pushing the boundaries of knitwear to create something innovative, edgy and luxurious.

http://dereklawlorknitwear.blogspot.com/

CARTA E COSTURA // Italy

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:07 +0000

Carta e Costura, a Milanese line that, after winning an award in the “Who’s on Next” 2007 fashion competition (created by Italian Vogue to promote new designers), has been snapped up by top retailers and acknowledged by fashion editors as one of the hottest new Italian labels. Well known by label lovers for its understated luxury and offbeat elegance, it combines couture-style pieces and dramatic sculptural detail, with clothes for everyday living.

Alessandra Carta, the creative force of Carta e Costura, now designing with Stefano Fornari, has also worked as a costume designer in films for a decade, specializing in costumes from past eras. They blend different aesthetics, historical period and silhouettes that can range from the medieval dresses to the future.

www.cartaecostura.com

NAKKNA // Sweden

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

Nakkna is a Swedish fashion label, founded by three designers, Claes Berkes, Ella Soccorsi and Camilla Sundin. They met and were all top students at the renowned Beckman’s School of Design from which they graduated in 2001. Two years later the company was established in Stockholm where the studio and the flagship store are located. The Nakkna style is best described as avant-garde yet very wearable. The signature Nakkna silhouette is easily recognized by it’s voluminous yet refined shapes.

The debut – AfricanDeathMetalCircus, S/S2004 – established a unique neominimalist approach where complex constructions and drapings were manifested in clean cuts. The Nakkna look has been described as ’a dialogue between soft, draped effects and hard, angular forms.’ Since launching, the design trio have recieved numerous awards, including the Elle Magazine Best Newcomer Award. From then on Nakkna has been a regular in Swedish fashion media. Since the beginning the Nakkna designers have had a close cooperation with creative agency Sandberg&Timonen, stylist Ellen Af Geijerstam and music composer and producer Yourhighness – particularly for the catwalk presentations that are essential to the Nakkna concept. The debut – AfricanDeathMetalCircus, S/S2004 – established a unique neominimalist approach where complex constructions and drapings were manifested in clean cuts. The Nakkna look has been described as ’a dialogue between soft, draped effects and hard,angular forms.’ Since launching, the design trio have recieved numerous awards, including the Elle Magazine Best Newcomer Award. From then on Nakkna has been a regular in Swedish fashion media. Since the beginning the Nakkna designers have had a close cooperation with creative agency Sandberg&Timonen, stylist Ellen Af Geijerstam and music composer and producer Yourhighness – particularly for the catwalk presentations that are essential to the Nakkna concept.

The creative process is a solemn one, among the designers the agreement of what the label should represent stretches beyond words. This mutual understanding is the key to keeping the label vital and progressive. Nakkna is a trio but speaks with one voice. The Nakkna label is sold through a total of some 30 stores in Scandinavia and selected stores in New York, Los Angeles, Milan, Hong Kong and Seoul.

www.nakkna.com

MUSTRE // Croatia

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

The name “Mustre – Fashion Manufacture” compiles ideas by designers –Jasna Štih Kapetanić, Sanja Jakupec and Biba Šipek who decided to join forces after many years of independent work. Their collections possess elements of fashionable yet timeless, which is the reason why Mustre say they are not slaves to trends. Each of them has a unique approach to fashion and an individual area of work – from designing clothes, knits, and jewellery to accessories – and by the use of imagination they are skilfully integrated making a coherent whole.

www.mustre.hr

MAK // Croatia

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

MAK was founded in 1986 as a small tailor’s trade. Today, as a Fashion house MAK, it has about 60 employees and is most renowned textile company of the city of Split with a tendency of further business expansion. MAK’s designer studio as well as manufacturing capacities are located in technologically most advanced and equipped textile workshop in Dalmatia. Fashion house MAK owns a large retail store chain and their products can be found in Concept stores in Zagreb, Karlovac and Zadar.

MAK’s autonomous fashion show held in 2000, in the residential facilities of Vila Dalmatia in Split, is estimated to be the most successful media fashion event of this kind ever held in Split. Fashion house MAK participated for years as a guest in the event ZLATNA IGLA ZAGREBA (Golden Needle of the city of Zagreb) – a fashion show of Zagreb’s artisans. It also took regularly part in MONTURA – a fashion show of Dalmatian’s artisans, as well as in fashion festival MODEFEST Hvar. The list of our fashion shows, you can see on our website, does not include smaller fashion shows, in which we also participated – indeed, there were too many of them during 22 years. Fashion house MAK participated in fashion shows abroad: Sarajevo Fashion Week and London fashion show, organized by British-Croatian Society. Each year, MAK introduces its new spring/summer and fall/winter collections, and presents them at the most important Croatian fashion event Cro-a-Porter, which has extremely high standards!

MAK’s collections fall/winter 2007/08, spring/summer 2008 as well as coming fall/winter 2008/2009 collection is designed by Teo Perić, one of the best Croatian designers. With Perić, the Fashion house MAK gained new freshness and expanded its fashion lines, thus recruiting new customers as well. It opened itself to the new ideas and new creative power. Split’s TEO P. & MAK connection proved to be extremely successful in both fields – media and business.

www.mak-modna-kuca.hr/

IVANA BARAČ // Croatia

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

Ivana Barač, the Croatian fashion designer was born in Dubrovnik. She is a restorer of stone and archaeological materials by profession. She takes active interest in fashion for several years. Based on positive reactions and identifying fashion as a polygon in realizing her own creativity she is entirely devoted to fashion as a vocation. She introduced her fashion concept – through her creation of bags offering an entirely new concept – a transformation of a bag into a skirt and a skirt into a bag by using a zip fastener. In Ivana Barač’s idea bag-skirts are an emancipation from cliché and prejudices of the traditional manner of clothing. These two, on the contrary, offer an alternative in decision making according to one’s mood and when the occasion arises. They are neither a part of an eccentric experiment nor are striving for a gallery exhibit excellence or some kind of decoration which ought to be explained about, in detail, by an unusual and expert comment. They are subject of elegance, provocation, passion, envy and desire. By their multi-functionality they become an entertaining, direct and everyday concept, namely, they impose themselves as a necessary component in the aesthetical and practical sense.

www.ivanabarac.com

ENVY ROOM // Croatia

uberwave — Sun, 07 Nov 2010 22:56:06 +0000

Envy Room – Croatian fashion brand that first steps made in 2004 is a result of a successful designer collaboration of Nikica Ivancevic and Vjeko Franetovic. True its existence Envy room organized 9 independent fashion shows at prestige Zagreb locations like Hypo Centar, Croatian State Arhiv, Hotel Sheraton etc. For each fashion show Envy room develops campaigns with great press coverage in Croatian and regional print and TV medias. Models for campaigns are carefully selected. Envy room had an honor to add on that list internationally successful Croatian model Kristina Sajko. Campaigns were done in collaboration with well known photographers like Mare Milin and Damir Hoyka. Many Croatian celebrities honored Envy room being a guest on the catwalk (Vanja Rupena, Mia Kovačić, Nikolna Pišek i dr.). Envy room had signed 7 music video spots and presented its collections at many Croatian fashion shows like Fashion,hr, Modafest Hvar etc. At the end of 2006. first Envy room store on Zagreb address was opened.